Although we weren’t looking for it, and had no idea it was there, it would have been impossible for us to drive past Reo’s Ribs in Aloha without noticing that there was some serious barbecuing underway. Appetizing smoke signals were emanating from huge black cookers at the side of the front parking lot, where the pit man used a garden hose to spritz the exterior of the metal drums so they smoked all the more. Lured in by the scent, we found spectacular barbecue: certainly the best ribs we’ve eaten west of Chicago, maybe the best ribs anywhere. They are big, muscular spare ribs, not the weenie-size baby backs that, by comparison, seem all too easy to eat. Meat does not fall from these bones. You tug it off with your teeth or pull it with sauce-drenched fingers. It comes easily, and is a pleasure to chew, radiating tidal waves of flavor and fairly throbbing with Reo’s vibrant sauce. Beyond ribs, Reo’s is a bonanza of soul-food barbecue that reflects the proprietor’s southern roots. Side dishes include collard and mustard greens simmered with ham hocks, fried okra, red beans and rice, butter-sopped yams, and macaroni and cheese, plus big hunks of freshly made cornbread for the side and sweet potato pie for dessert. Sundays feature an all-you-can-eat barbecue buffet. Reo told us that he has some customers in the 800-900 pound range. “I’m scared when I see them come in,” he said. “They eat rack after rack of ribs and pounds of brisket. But ...
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