BIG SUR As fires rip up and down mountain ridges hemming this coastal village, there is a love story playing out here. Outside his deli and store that was sprayed with fire retardant, visible on the windows, Kurt Mayer surveys a quiet scene devoid of tourists that usually pass by his Big Sur Center. Only firefighters buying such goods as soda or chewing tobacco have been coming by, Mayer said. But he's confident the flow of visitors will return soon after the fires are extinguished to take in the coastal region's world-famous beauty. A sign on Highway 1 thanks fire crews for their efforts to spare Big Sur the fires' fury. Businesses are readying for the reopening of the route that will bring back visitors and their dollars after a fire-abbreviated season. Some state parks in the area may reopen next week. ...